THE EFFECT OF WATER DEPTH ON WAVE SPEED

PURPOSE

To observe the effect that different water depths have on the speed of small man waves.

MATERIALS

Small aquarium Meter stick Stop watch cushion water bucket marine biology book

PROCEDURE

1. Always keep the cushion under the lifting end of the aquarium.

2. Add 1 cm of water, using the water bucket.

3. Lift one end of the aquarium and rest it on the edge of the book.

4. Wait until all water movement has stopped.

5. Start the stopwatch at the same time that you pull the book out from under the aquarium. (hold in the cushion!)

6. Stop the watch at the instant the wave returns to the end of the aquarium AWAY from the book.

7. Record the time (period) in the appropriate space on your data sheet.

8. Repeat steps 3-7 two more times so you will have 3 readings for the same . Repeat steps 2-8 three more times so you will have taken

1. 3 readings each for

2. 4 different depths (1cm, 2cm, 3cm, 4cm)

10. Calculate the average period for the four depths and record the results on the data sheet.

11. For each depth, calculate and record the wave speed, using the average period. [ Wave Speed = wave length / period] (wave length=length of aquarium)

12. Graph your results using the water depth as the Y-axis (up and down) and using wave speed as the x-axis (across the bottom)

BE SURE TO LABEL the y-axis and x-axis and the title of the graph.

Part III

CONCLUSION

1. How did the depth of the water affect the speed of the wave?

 

2. Would you expect a wave to slow down or speed up as it reaches shallow water? What is causing this effect?

 

3. How might bottom friction in shallow water cause waves to spill over in the form of breakers?

Wave Length Water Depth Period Average period Wave speed

 

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12.Graph

 

Wave Problems

 

1. A beach ball rises and falls 20 times in 40 seconds. What is the frequency of the waves? (#/t)

2. In 60 seconds, 20 wave crests pass a dock pole. What is the wave period? (t/#)

3. A boat goes up and down 45 times in 15 seconds. What is the wave frequency?

4. 50 wave crests pass a bouy in one minute. What is the period of these waves?