Mechanics of Surf Breaks/coral reef effects on waves/point breaks etc (by Surfline)

 

 

http://www.surfscience.com/topics/waves-and-weather/waves-101/science-of-teahupoo/

 

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/teahupoo-surf-mechanics_58392

 

http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/mechanics/