Waves tides currents review questions

Homework 3

Currents

1.  What force cause wind/currents to deflect to the right?

2.  How does deep sea circulation differ from surface currents?

3Assume the wind is blowing from the southwest along the Florida coast. Describe the ocean response.

4 In which direction do Coriolis effects cause drifting particles to deflect in the Southern Hemisphere?

Waves

5.  What can form waves?

6  What 3 factors dertemine the size of a wave?

7  What are the parts of the wave?  Draw and label.

8) Contrast two sets of topographic features that cause differences in how wave energy is released on shorelines? Briefly justify your answers.

Tides

9.  What causes tides?

10  What are factors effecting tides?

11.  Compare spring and neap tides.

12.Describe the formation of tides, the three tidal patterns and how an intertidal zone is created on the shore.

13.  Draw a marigram for the three types of tides.

 

Review Questions

1. The prime movers of oceanic surface currents are the:

2. The fastest and deepest surface currents are along the____boundaries of the ocean basins.

3. Benjamin Franklin first recorded and described the:

4. The California current is well-known for supplying the North American west coast with cool, nutrient-rich water in the form of:

5. One of the first events in an El Niiio sequence is:

6. The only major global current that is not in a gyre-configuration is the:

7. The circulation pattern set up as layers of water that affect those immediately below them is called:

8. The force of gravity tends to act____a pressure gradient.

9. In the Northern Hemisphere the Coriolis deflection is:

10. Ocean current speed is difficult to measure because:

12. In the Northern Hemisphere, surface currents flow to the right of wind direction, due to:

13. Wavelength is defined as:

14 The basic concept of a wave is that of a  ___    caused by the movement of ___through a___      

14. Rip currents are the result of:

15. Surface tension/cohesion is the main____        for capillary waves.

16. Waves of different periods and wavelengths, combining and moving in different directions, is called

17. Three factors directly affect the growth of wind waves-wind strength, wind duration, and:

18. The largest wave accurately measured and recorded was____   feet high.

19. Rogue waves are usually the result of:

20. A deep-water wave is defined as a wave moving through water:

21. Waves forming between layers of fluids of different densities are called:

22. When the maximum wave size theoretically possible for a wind of a specific strength, duration, and fetch is reached, this is called a:

23. Which of these phenomena cannot result in a tsunami?

24 The DART program for tsunami monitoring is based upon:

25. Once a tsunami is generated, its ratio of height-to-length, or steepness:

26. When a tsunami comes ashore, its typical appearance is as a:

27. As the tsunami crest approaches shore, the wave height____, the velocity, ___

and the period______   

28. Most seismic sea waves are generated_______, due to the seismic activity there.

29. When calculating the gravitational attraction between the moon and Earth, we relate the masses of those two bodies to the:

30-. Which of the following processes is/are affected by tides?

(A)  coastal estuarine sedimentation (B)  pollutant transport (C)  invertebrate reproduction (D)  all of the above

31 -The concept of a node in the resonant oscillation phenomenon is called______     in a large ocean basin.

32. Due to its closer proximity, the gravitational effect of the moon on Earth is about_____ that of the sun.

33. When discussing tidal forces, centrifugal force is often used as a synonym for:

34. An ebb current is a type of:

35. Solar tides are caused by the sun's     _______acting on Earth.

36. A tidal bore is:

37 What are the three basic tidal patterns?

38. The difference between high tide and low tide levels is called the:

Reading-- A Wave is Born

___1. According to "A Wave Is Born: How Winds Power and Shape the Surf," the main energy source of waves is:    a. earthquakes.    b. wind.   c. volcanoes.    d. landslides.

___2. As noted in "A Wave Is Born: How Winds Power and Shape the Surf," if the crests of two sets of swells intersect, they will combine into one set of gigantic swells called: 

       a. killer waves.   b. spindrifts.   c. rogue waves.  d. whitecaps.

 ___3. As reported in "A Wave Is Born: How Winds Power and Shape the Surf," most swells do not pass close to land.      a. true       b. false